Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2015

0,75 l, a Pinot Noir Dry Red Table wine from Les Murgers, Nuits St Georges, Burgundy, France, alcohol content: 12,5%

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€790,00 Incl. tax
Grundpreis: €1.053,00 / Liter
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Delivery time: 2-3 workdays

Alkoholgrad: 12,5% vol.
Allergene: Sulfite, Spuren von Eiweiß
Abfüller/Erzeuger: Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, 20 Rue de la Goillotte, 21700 Vosne-Romanée, Frankreich

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard 

More wines from this producer

 Red
Young
Table
Dry
Pinot Noir
(96 - 98)
NA
2022 - 2050
Neal Martin
30th Dec 2016

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts has just a little less new oak than the Les Suchots this year. The aromatics are more backward and recalcitrant than the Les Suchots and demanded more coaxing from the glass. There is a sense of depth to the fruit, almost an opacity that suggests the fruit will only gradually open up. It was difficult wrenching your nose away from the glass! The palate is beautifully balanced with succulent fleshy tannin, voluminous in the mouth with immense concentration counterbalanced by a keen line of acidity. Very persistent in the mouth, this will be immense once in bottle. Cellar for as long as you can.

My last visit of the week was to Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, an appropriate way to finish what had been five days full of splendid 2015s. Sebastien Cathiard has been the young man in charge here since taking over from his father and as I have written in previous reports, has made an effort to not so much change the style of the domaine's wines, but rather make them more nuanced and approach the level of new oak with prudence. Whereas once for example, the Romanée-Saint-Vivant comprised of three pristine new barrels, nowadays often one of those will be used. "The vines did not suffer too much sunburn during the growing season," he answered when I posed that question. "We were analyzing the fruit from the end of August and beginning of September and we could have begun on 5 September. But they just did not seem phenolically ripe and so we started on 12 September and picked over the next three days. Looking back, I am glad to have started on the 12 rather than the 5 September. We did a cold pre-fermentation at around 10°C to cool the must and I did a little more pigeage than in 2014, because I did not want to extract any astringency from the skins or pips. Everything was de-stemmed. The pH levels are very good, around 3.40 and 3.45 and in fact, they actually increased a little after malolactic because the malic was low. That keeps the freshness. The malolactics were late and so the barrel samples are at different stages, the Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts being the last to finish. The level of new oak is the same as 2014, around 50% for the premier crus and never more than two-thirds new oak. What has changed is the toasting.I have reduced the level of toasting for three-quarters of the barrels." This is a strong set of wines from Sebastien, maintaining the style of Cathiard insofar that they are plush in style, more like Grivot in style than say, perhaps to some modern in style, but today demonstrating more terroir and less of the winemaking regime thanks to the more thoughtful use of new wood. There are many highlight beyond the obvious crown in the jewel, the Romanée-Saint-Vivant. The Nuits Saint-Georges Villages is a treat, ditto the premier cru Aux Murgers (although opt for the Aux Thorey if you prefer a Cru that will needs less bottle age). The premier crus from Vosne-Romanée are fantastic, the Aux Malconsorts founded upon the backbone and structure this vineyard imparts, the Aux Reignots with stunning tension and electricity, a barrel sample that just seemed so alive. Sebastien himself remarked how much the barrel samples had changed in recent days, so my observations are a snapshot. But overall the quality here suggests that Cathiard's 2015s will be some of the best in town (or village).

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