Othegraven Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese 2006

0,75 l, a Riesling Medium Dry White Table wine from Bockstein, Ockfen, Upper Mosel, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany

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2006 Von Othegraven Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spatlese
A Riesling Medium Dry White Table wine from
Bockstein, Ockfen, Upper Mosel, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Source
eRobertParker.com #1109
Nov 2009
Reviewer
David Schildknecht
Rating
89
Maturity
Drink: N/A
Current (Release) Cost
$52 (52)
Scents of cherry and apple blossoms form the glass of von Othegraven 2006 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spatlese segue into a delicate, subtly creamy yet refreshing, Normandy cider-like expression of apple. This surpasses the corresponding Kabinett less by dint of additional complexity than by a sort of perfection-in-simplicity, although floral and mineral nuances definitely shine through its clear, persistent finishing fruit. One should be able to derive great pleasure from this for the next 10-12 years, at least. 

Dr. Heidi Kegel and her cellarmaster Andreas Barth have introduced some large new casks with the 2008 vintage, and while this means having to deal with flavors of wood in the early stages, the impetus for installing them to “open the wines up a bit” is understandable when one considers the dry 2007 vintage results in particular, with their pungently herbal, reductive notes. Of more immediate concern though are suggestions in these dry wines of bitterness and a certain stiff austerity, and not only in this vintage. Happily, the residually sweet wines this year (which are the ones imported to the U.S.) are the most expressive and focused I have thus far tasted from this estate, and clearly reflective of their outstanding vine acreage.

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