All the best elements of the vintage and house style come together in HdV’s 2009 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. The fruit is a bit richer, riper and more voluptuous than in most HdV wines, which serves to balance the cool, vibrant style the estate favors. The 2009 impresses for its length, persistence and spherical finish. This is a great showing from HdV. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This was my first visit to HdV (Hyde de Villaine), a small artisan winery located in southern Napa Valley. HdV is partnership between Larry Hyde and his cousin Pamela de Villaine’s family, including her husband, Aubert de Villaine, one of the co-owners of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. The wines are generally made with an emphasis on freshness that is achieved through early picking and gentle winemaking. Not surprisingly, the Chardonnays are steely and tense in style, while the Syrah is restrained relative to what most readers are likely to expect in California. Pinot Noir is a recent addition to the lineup. Given the estate’s Burgundian connection, it will be very interesting to see what develops here with Pinot over the coming years. The estate’s Belle Cousine Bordeaux-blend appears to still be a work in progress and the wine less inherently suited to the goals of the estate.