Martin Müllen Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese trocken 2013

Ein trockener Qualitätsweißwein aus Kröv, Mosel Saar Ruwer, Deutschland, Alkoholgehalt: 13,0%, Rebsorte: Riesling, Flascheninhalt: 0,75l, ausgezeichnet mit 94 Parker Punkten (siehe unter Informationen)

Verfügbarkeit: Auf Lager

€18,00 Inkl. MwSt. zzgl. Versandkosten
Grundpreis: €25,00 / Liter

in den Warenkorb
Lieferzeit: sofort versandfertig, Lieferfrist 2-3 Werktage
Alkoholgrad: 13,0% vol.
Allergene: Sulfite, Spuren von Eiweiß
Abfüller/Erzeuger: Weingut Müllen Martin, Alte Marktstraße 2, 56841 Traben-Trarbach, Deuschland

2013 Martin Mullen Krover Steffensberg Riesling Spatlese trocken
Martin Mullen visit the producer
A Riesling Dry White Table wine from
Germany, Krov, Bernkastel, Mosel, Germany
Source #217
Feb 2015
Stephan Reinhardt
Drink: 2020 - 2040
A rather cool, herbal and flinty Granny Smith aroma is displayed by the 2013 Kröver Steffensberg Riesling Spätlese trocken, which combines the purity of Müllen with the complexity of the Steffensberg. This is a full-bodied, complex, intense and piquant wine with just 11.5% alcohol but a thrilling, tension-filled finish and aromatic aftertaste. This will be a great, energetic, bright and refreshing wine in 10 years but you need patience and trust. 

Martin Müllen is one of the most interesting, individual wine growers in the Mosel. Originated in Kröv, but located in Trarbach for many years, he is handcrafting wines similar 100 years ago. 
Müllen says he was always deeply impressed by the site and its 50- to 100-year-old vines. "The same old, un-grafted vines we are cultivating today made Mosel Riesling world famous four generations ago. I wanted to see how modern Mosel Riesling can taste when we produce it from the same vines and in the same way like our ancestors did." So Müllen started handcrafting what he calls "true natural wines": with no additives or other manipulations. He and his team harvests exclusively by hand in great vats, the grapes are then slightly crushed and put with buckets onto the basket press (of which Müllen uses three) and nothing is pumped. Every basket is pressed for 20 hours and the must runs out quite clear and is allowed to oxidize for some hours before it is transferred into traditional fuders and 500-liter oak barrels where the musts ferment spontaneously. "We used industrial yeasts in the early 1980s when we were still in Kröv," Müllen says. "However, when we discovered that the difficult 1984 vintage was tasting like the great 1983 we said to ourselves: No, we don't want that all sites and all vintages taste the same without respect to origins. Since the wines also lacked the creamy texture and super finesse of the former ones, we decided in 1985 to go back to the spontaneous fermentation." 
Müllen's wine style is quite unique in the Mosel, and that's obvious already in his wine list which is offering Rieslings from the 1990s until the 2013 vintage. For obscure reasons Müllen, whose estate is sober, has obviously no economic need to sell the youngest vintage completely. Indeed, he uses seven ancient cellars in Trarbach, a former stronghold of the Mosel wine trade. "Here the wines can age under optimal conditions," he says. To him, Riesling shows its talents most of all when it is mature. That's why he always puts many wines of a vintage back into the cellars and offers them again when he thinks they are ready to drink. 
All of the wines I have tasted for this report (find more Muüllen and many other wines on are available and Müllen prepared another dozen wines (including sweet Spätlesen, Auslesen and Beerenauslesen), which I could not taste due to other appointments, but will certainly do when my way goes back to Traben-Trarbach. 
Here are some facts: Müllen cultivates 4.1 hectares of vines, all top sites, all in steepest slopes in Traben-Trarbach and in Kröv. Virtually everything is Riesling except of some square meters of Rivaner and Pinot Noir. His best vineyard is the Hühnerberg, a steep, terraced site two kilometers away from the Mosel river. Two hectares of the Hühnerberg were classified as one of the top sites in the 1897 map which decorates the beautiful new label of Müllen's antique blue Riesling bottles together with the map of 1868. "The Hühnerberg vineyard is formed like an amphitheatre and the slate soil has a brownish color," explains Müllen, who thinks this is due to the rich iron content of the soils. He is the only producer who holds the old class 1 block. Müllen calls his top vineyard a "diva." "You have to take care all the days," he says. "This site wants you to look at it every day and if you don't do what the Hühnerberg wants its revenge is terrible. The vineyard forces us to work the soil, the vines and the leafs at the right time because otherwise we would not harvest a single grape." 
In 2013, Müllen harvested only 15 hectoliters per hectare and says: "Maybe we should have harvested a little bit earlier, say up to two weeks." This year he wants to harvest some parcels earlier as soon as the grapes are ripe. "It's a high risk to harvest late. In the last two years I have lost significant quantities. I don't think that the wine becomes bad when it's made from ripe instead of fully or overripe grapes. This year I want to try."
Martin Müllen offered me many matured wines before he poured the first 2013s. But since there was no rush necessary even with the smaller yields of 2013 there I left most of the 2013s untasted. Otherwise my schedule would have been completely confused.
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