Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 2017

Ein trockener Qualitätsweißwein aus Clavaillon, Puligny Montrachet, Cote de Beaune, Burgund, Frankreich, Alkoholgehalt: 13,5%, Rebsorten: 100% Chardonnay, Flascheninhalt: 0,75l, ausgezeichnet mit 89-91 Punkten (siehe unter Informationen).

Artikelnummer:: 26
Verfügbarkeit: Auf Lager

€195,00 Inkl. MwSt. zzgl. Versandkosten
Grundpreis: €212,53 / Liter

in den Warenkorb
Lieferzeit: sofort versandfertig, Lieferfrist 2-3 Werktage

Alkoholgrad: 12,5% vol.
Allergene: Sulfite, Spuren von Eiweiß
Abfüller/Erzeuger: Domaine Leflaive, Place des Marronniers, 21190 Puligny-Montrachet, Frankreich

(89 - 91)
2017 - 2027
Neal Martin
31st Dec 2015

The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon had a slightly muted bouquet: flinty at first, straight-laced with just a touch of dewy green apple. The palate is fresh on the entry with a bright opening and then it hunkers down towards a more stony, precise, flinty finish. Understated perhaps, but there is good length here.

My first ever visit to Domaine Leflaive was in 1997, my first ever in the strangest of places called Burgundy. My memories are vague, but it might well have been my first ever visit to the wine region -- back then playing second fiddle to all-conquering Bordeaux. Burgundy was for those that could not afford Bordeaux at a time when Bordeaux was actually affordable. I think I met Anne-Claude briefly on that occasion, just to say hello, but it was somebody else dipping pipette into barrel. Some 18 years later, and this is the first time that I have visited the domaine, and the matriarch has gone. I cannot deny that it is strange, like visiting a house when the owners are out. Of course, they are not. I am met my Brice de la Morandie, one of many shareholders in the estate, the one who has grabbed hold of the tiller after Anne-Claude’s untimely passing last year. He cuts a very different figure: sartorially immaculate in tweed jacket, handkerchief neatly folded into breast pocket, cutting the figure of a businessman as well as winemaker (and there is nothing wrong with that). I am here to assess the wines and he is probably here to assess me and doubtless, other importers and scribes that will visit over the next couple of months. Winemaker Antoine Repetit de la Bigne joined us and guided me through recent vintages. He is one of the most ardent proponents of biodynamics, having gone so far to pen his own book on Steiner’s philosophy. “The growth cycle of the 2014 vintage started early in March, which was warm, so budburst took place at the end of month,” he explained, mounting a ladder to dip a pipette into the stainless steel vat. “And then it went much more slowly since April was cold. We feared it was going to be an early vintage, but spring slowed things down when it was warm and cold. Flowering took place in early June under warm conditions and it was quite dry. We didn't see it, but many vineyards suffered a little drought. It was more noticeable at the end of the cycle and this postponed the growth. We had some hail in some vineyards, just 10% in the northern [vineyards] and the highest part of the hill. August was better than July and we started picking on September 10 under good conditions. The berries were not small like in 2015. The ripening was not too difficult and kept their freshness and the tension. We finished the harvest around September 17 or 18. It was an easier vintage than 2013, which was so unpredictable. With regard to the vinification: 12 months in wood and then we transfer into tank for the second year in the third week of August. Some of the malolactics went through early, some of them before Christmas.” I asked Antoine about the style of the 2014s vis-à-vis the previous vintage. “The 2014s I find are easy to read,” he replied, “and compared to 2013, the acidity is not so edgy. We are around the average in terms of production. We have not decided a bottling date yet, but it will probably be between April and June.” As one would expect, it was a strong performance from Leflaive in a vintage abundant with great white Burgundy, one in which the Chardonnay excelled. My pick would be the Puligny-esque Meursault Sous Dos D’Ane, the Puligny Combettes and if you must insist on a grand cru, perhaps the winsome Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet. There were a couple that I feel need to up their game, perhaps the Puligny-Folatières and certainly the Bâtard-Montrachet. Let us see how they turn out once in bottle. I should caution here that I have been stung by three instances of prematurely oxidized wines from the domaine over the last twelve months, both in professional tastings and at private dinners. There has been consternation expressed by many of my Burgundy aficionado friends about the instances of faulty bottles and indeed, one person heavily involved in its distribution reported that avid lovers of Leflaive have begun losing confidence. Whilst I have always supported the late Anne-Claude’s dedication to biodynamics, I feel that one must never lose sight of consumers at the other end. You may have abided by the rules of biodynamics, applied preparations meticulously throughout the year, followed the lunar or inter-planetary calendar to the second…but if that bottle is undrinkable, then what did all that count for? As the next chapter opens for Domaine Leflaive, as managers such as Brice consider the future, I do hope this issue is addressed and not swept under the carpet. The fact is, some of the greatest white Burgundy wines that I have ever tasted have come from this address, including older vintage bottles over the last 12 months. I will never forget immortal wines from the 1992 or 1999 vintages, more recently some fabulous 2007s. However, if I want to play Russian Roulette, I prefer to do it properly and use a gun and not a Burgundy wine from a domaine that I have long cherished.

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