Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc 2015

Ein trockener Qualitätsweißwein aus Cote de Beaune, Burgund, Frankreich, Alkoholgehalt: 12,5%, Rebsorten: 100% Chardonnay, Flascheninhalt: 0,75l. Ausgezeichnet mit 85-87 Parker Punkten (siehe unter Informationen).

Artikelnummer:: 140
Verfügbarkeit: Auf Lager

€65,00 Inkl. MwSt. zzgl. Versandkosten
Grundpreis: €82,00 / Liter

in den Warenkorb
Lieferzeit: sofort versandfertig, Lieferfrist 2-3 Werktage

Alkoholgrad: 12,5% vol.
Allergene: Sulfite, Spuren von Eiweiß
Abfüller/Erzeuger: Domaine Leflaive, Place des Marronniers, 21190 Puligny-Montrachet, Frankreich

(85 - 87)
2017 - 2021
Neal Martin
30th Dec 2016

The 2015 Bourgogne Blanc has a clean, grapefruit and green apple-scented bouquet, a little fatter than I recall the 2014 last year. The palate is balanced with a pleasant weight and fatness in the mouth, the acidity retaining decent tension, leading to a spicy though not tensile finish. Drink this over the next 2-4 years. I like the bit of chutzpah here.

A couple of weeks before visiting Domaine Leflaive, a friend asked why critics do not address the issue or premature oxidation in their reviews. Is that not tantamount to giving misleading information? I replied that my job as a reviewer is to evaluate what is in the glass. You cannot downgrade a score on the chance that it could be compromised in bottle. Indeed I actually addressed the issue in my introduction to last year's 2014 report. At least the domaine are clearly no longer ignoring the issue and in Brice de la Morandie, they have the ideal person to make difficult decisions and reinstall Leflaive as one of the great Burgundy domaines. It still is, in my opinion. Their enviable array of holdings has not altered. However, a reputation does not make any grower immune to premox or high incidence of TCA, and they have understood that, and acted upon it—some might say—in radical fashion. Brice told me that they are closely monitoring both practices in the vineyard and during vinification, impressing upon me that they would uphold and continue the biodynamic practices introduced by the late Anne-Claude. Biodynamie is not at fault, so why change if it has worked for many years? Rather, they are looking at their use of wine presses as a possible cause for premox. From 2014, they have taken what I feel is a momentous decision to bottle everything under DIAM, more exactly, DIAM 10 for the Bourgogne Rouge and Village Cru, DIAM 30 for everything else...including the Montrachet. This is not some rash decision. “C’est un decision raisonée et raisonnable,” insists Brice. He told me that they have been trialing DIAM for some years and conducted blind comparative tastings since the 2011 vintage. Guess what. His team unanimously preferred the bottles closed under DIAM over cork. They went further and analyzed the bottles and found that whilst the SO2 level was consistent for DIAM at 20mg/L, it had fallen to between 18 and 5-mg/L under cork so that the wine was no longer being protected. Moreover, he feels that DIAM is simpatico with the biodynamic ethos even if some might claim that it is not natural. Then again, as I pointed out during my discussion with Brice, the first rule of a wine is to give pleasure. If a bottle is premox'd and unpalatable, any biodynamic practices, any meticulous care during vinification, is irrelevant. It is meaningless. Therefore I fully support the move. At the end of the day, as Dominique Lafon said, winemakers will never know until they try. Empiricism is the only way to properly evaluate alternative closures, not hearsay of speculation. It's a start and even though there are likely to several areas of production that need to be addressed, at least incidences of TCA will be zero. Brice told me that he fears that the discussion of Leflaive’s wine will surround associated issues and I am guilty of this already in this introduction, so let us look at the wines that I tasted with winemaker Eric Remy, Antoine Repetit de la Bigne having departed in recent months. “Between October and December 2015 the conditions were humid,” he explained. “In 2016 there are some similarities to 2014. Budding took place at the end of March and there followed a regular maturation. Flowering occurred on 22 May, practically the same as in 2014. There was a warm period at the beginning of June so the flowering was rapid and it continued warm and dry. Fortunately in mid-June there was 50mm of rain. In July there came a big divergence with 2014 as it was very warm and dry, whereas in 2014 it was cool. At the beginning of August, the bunches continued to advance in maturity and consequently we kept bringing the date of harvest forward so that it eventually began on 28 August. The last time we started in this month was in 2003. The picking lasted around a week, starting gently and analyzing the [grape] maturity. On the Saturday morning we started with the grand crus as the weather forecast was not good but actually the weather stayed fine. We continued with the premier cru and village crus. The yields are 32hl/ha for the Bourgogne Blanc and average 48hl/ha for the domaine. Fermentation was classic...” Brice interjected to remark: “When the crop was harvested the acidity was not so good. So it has been a pleasant surprise to find pH levels as low as 3.10 and 3.15.” As usual, the wines were matured in barrel for 12 months and then will spend an additional 6 months in stainless steel. Simply, I actually found the 2015s very similar in terms of quality, if not stylistically, to the 2014s. When I examined my scores they appeared identical in many cases, with the exception of the Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet and the Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes. That is some achievement given that on paper, the 2014 white Burgundy wines are supposed to be superior to their 2015 counterparts, as I discovered at many domaines. Not here. For sure, they have a little more weight and richness, yet they seem to present the same precision and tension as the previous vintage, equally expressive of their respective terroirs. Since the bottles will be closed under DIAM, I no longer have to forewarn about the specter of TCA, though of course it is not only the closure that needs to be addressed. It is not the prime cause of premature oxidation and I should stress again that they are analyzing all parts of the process. At least there is a proactive approach and Brice is not one to ignore a problem, recognizing that it has been tarnishing the domaine’s reputation. A new chapter has clearly opened at Domaine Leflaive and I am certain there will be more developments in forthcoming months.

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