Chateau de Meursault Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Dessus 2014

Ein trockener Qualitätsweißwein aus Meursault, Burgund, Frankreich, Alkoholgehalt: 13,0%, Rebsorten: 100% Chardonnay, Flascheninhalt: 0,75 l, ausgezeichnet mit 88-90 Parker Punkte (siehe unter Informationen)

Verfügbarkeit: Auf Lager

€86,50 Inkl. MwSt. zzgl. Versandkosten
Grundpreis: €115,33 / Liter
Menge:    

in den Warenkorb
Lieferzeit: sofort versandfertig, Lieferfrist 2-3 Werktage
Alkoholgrad: 13,0% vol.
Allergene: Sulfite, Spuren von Eiweiß
Abfüller/Erzeuger: Château de Meursault, 5 Rue du Moulin Foulot, 21190 Meursault, Frankreich



2014 Chateau de Meursault Meursault 1er Cru Charmes-Dessus
A Chardonnay Dry White Table wine from
France, Charmes, Meursault, Burgundy, France
Source
eRobertParker.com #222
Dec 2015
Reviewer
Neal Martin
Rating
92-94
Maturity
Drink: 2018 - 2032
Current (Release) Cost
$69-$99
The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes-Dessus is almost exactly like the Meursault Charmes on the nose, except that there is a smidgen more delineation. It opens very nicely with apricot blossom and white peach scents, gaining vigor all the time. The palate is crisp and vibrant, saline in the mouth with a tensile, quite concentrated finish that feels long in the mouth. This is very impressive.

Following a couple of impressive 2012s that popped up during the blind Burgfest tasting, I took it upon myself to venture further and arranged a visit to Château de Meursault. Synonymous with the famous La Paulée every November, it must be said that the wines were traditionally very commercial and for want of a better phrase, they seemed to "tread water." Then in 2012 Olivier Halley, whose family own the Carrefour supermarket chain, acquired the property from the Boissot family and of course, Mon. Halley is not short of a Euro or two. It was an astute purchase -- both Château de Meursault and Château de Marsannay. Whilst they both might lack the kudos of an artisan producer, what Halley probably saw was an underperforming estate that had immense potential given its vineyard holdings. Cue a great deal of expenditure and a total change in practices. One assiduous thing they did do is keep winemaker Emmanuel Escoutenaire who had been there for several years.

I met with Emmanuel and Stéphane Follin, the brother of Franck Follin at Domaine Follin-Abelet. Formerly the manager at Bouchard Père & Fils, he moved to Château de Meursault in 2012. He is certainly a different kettle of fish to his quietly-spoken brother. Stéphane is much more demonstrative and ambitious, not short of the occasional hubristic statement. 

“We have some of the best spots in the various vineyards that we own," he explained. "This is the case for each village the we have. Mon. Boissot always bought the best parcels. The average age of the vines is 40 to 50 years. The yields of the reds were small. Maybe in the past they did not do enough re-grafting for the red vines. We are going towards an organic approach. In the last two years, I've bought six new tractors just to have the best treatments in the best conditions, although I am not convinced by biodynamics at the moment. We found a brand new optical sorting table, one of only three sorting tables in Burgundy. I thought it was too expensive in the beginning. In 2012, 2013 and 2014, we had a lot of hail. We have tested the machine and it's wonderful. It works all the day and never tires -- you can select exactly what you want. We got very good reception for the 2013s because of this machine.”

“We have changed the process for the reds and whites. For the reds we used to have big vats with a lot of pumping. These are no longer used, so now we have a lot of new vats: eight new wooden vats for the best cuvées and 30 new stainless vats. All of the grapes are put into the vats by a conveyor, so it is now a delicate process. We now use 20-kilogram cagettes instead of the buckets on the back. Everything is picked by hand and there is now minimal use of pumps. The texture of Pinot Noir is a question of how gentle you are with the wines and this is very important. This is also why we stopped using a big filtration and do just a small fining.” 

“We used to buy 100 new barrels per year and now it is 300. We changed coopers and now concentrate on Taransaud, François Frères and a little Seguin Moreau, testing them every year. Now we use 35% to 40% new oak for the premier crus and we will stay around this level depending on the growing season. We will no longer use barrels over three years.”

“We have done half of what we set out to achieve. There is now no négoçe. Our competitors are Comtes-Lafon, Roulot and so on. We have improved with the whites, but it takes a little longer with the reds. I want to work on the mouthfeel for the reds.”

So that was useful information and professionally delivered sales pitch. Do the wines stack up? Well, firstly the white are seriously in a different league to anything Château de Meursault made before 2012. It's easier just to forget those wines and approach these with an open mind because they are cleaner, more tensile, more complex and from time to time, quite exceptional. That should be the case because they have some propitious holdings of vine. What should not be underestimated is the value that the winemaker Emmanuel brings. I think there is real talent here and now he has been given the tools to demonstrate what he can do. It is a pity that the managers do not see fit to mention him on their website - he should be there. Are the whites the same quality as the likes of Coche, Lafon, Roulot or Ente? Not yet, but it is not unfeasible. The reds do need some work, although again, they are significantly better than anything I tasted previously. 

Certainly there is great potential here. Had it not been for the Pinot Noir in my glass, I sometimes felt that the rhetoric surrounding Château de Meursault was more suited to Bordeaux rather than Burgundy. That might put off some of the Burgundy purists who seek winemakers with calloused hands driving a fork-lift truck. Then again, that might be a moot point if the wines are so much better.

A small point about Château de Marsannay… I did begin tasting their 2014s, but there was clearly something awry with the samples and so I will taste them on another occasion. They have recently installed a new winemaker so there are changes afoot there as well.
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